Sunday, 18 September 2022

Bikepacking - Europe 2022 Equipment Review

 I took lots of stuff with me on my bikepacking trip around Europe. 


Here's my assessment of how useful each item was, whether it worked as expected and so on. I haven't mentioned everything, so if an item mentioned in my original packing list isn't covered here, it's because there's nothing to say. Yes, my toothbrush was useful and yes, I'd take one again!

But first, a quick note regarding weight.

My bike weighs 15 Kg (33 pounds)

My luggage weighed about 11 Kg (24 pounds)

I weigh 73 Kg (11 stones, 7 pounds).

I worried about weight and spent lots of time and money trying to reduce the weight of my bike and luggage. I even lost some weight myself before this trip, noting that the one object with the greatest potential for weight reduction was the bike's rider! But I also shaved 50g off here, 100g there by replacing some of my equipment. I saved a couple of 100g by replacing my Thermarest sleeping mat, for example. And I bought a new plastic mallet that was a bit lighter than the one I already had.

But was this worth it? I ask the rhetorical question because once the trip had started, bit by bit, I accumulated more things to carry, including a 3rd 750ml bottle of water, the food I was carrying on the day and in a fit of puncture paranoia after the broken spoke incident, three extra inner tubes. And it didn't matter. Weight is worth thinking about but I no longer believe it's worth worrying about when you're down to a few hundred grams here and there. You won't notice it, at least I can't say that I did.

Anyway, let's look at the list of things I took with me. 

THE BIKE

Specialized Rockhopper Expert 29 (2017 model with modifications) The bike, or "The Mule" as I came to call it, performed incredibly well. I didn't have a single bad gear change. I didn't have a single puncture! The only problems I had were one broken spoke nipple and a few times, the chain jumped off the smallest gear and got jammed between it and the frame. The spoke was replaced by a shop and I solved the problem with the chain by gradually tweaking the appropriate limit screw on the derailleur. I couldn't be happier with the bike. An amazing performance, especially given the range of terrain types cycled over and the weight carried.
Continental Ride Tour 37-622 tyres Fantastic! No punctures in nearly 3,000 miles? Amazing. I credit the tyres with this outcome rather than the Tubolito inner tubes because I have no reason to believe the tyres were ever breached. I'll be sticking with Continental Ride Tour from now on but I think I'll try the 42mm tyres for bikepacking rather than the 37mm ones I used. They were fine, but a larger volume of air in the rear tyre is probably a good idea for a more comfortable ride and more shock absorbing qualities, especially at the rear wheel which with my set-up is carrying so much load.
Tubolito thermoplastic inner tubes (X-CX Gravel on front, X-City/Tour on rear) I don't know! Thanks to the Continental Ride Tour tyres, I'm not convinced the Tubolito tubes were ever tested. What I do know though is that they are very easy to tear when fitting. Twice now, including in Spain where I had my broken spoke fixed, a bike shop has damaged the Tubolito tube whilst working on the bike. They're expensive and shops don't tend to stock them so this is an issue. They also need a special repair kit. Given how well my tyres performed, I'm not sure I actually need these tubes and may not replace them when the time comes.
Nukeproof Sam Hill Enduro pedals Good. Nice big platforms for pedalling. The pins provide excellent grip, too. I lost a few pins on the trip, probably through a pedal striking the ground when cornering occasionally. They're easily replaced though and losing a few pins caused no actual problems.
Shimano B03S Brake pads Despite all the enormous descents I did, these still seem to be going strong. They certainly did the job they were intended to otherwise I probably wouldn't be here to write this review!
KMC X10 chain Impressive! I looked after the chain, cleaning and lubricating every week. It's showing some signs of wear but does not yet need replacing. Pretty good after all those miles.
Bar ends The bar ends I fitted to my handlebars were a very good idea. My hands and wrists would often ache and being able to change hand position was a big help in alleviating the stress they were under.
Gel saddle cover My behind got a little sore during the first couple of weeks so the gel cover was no miracle cure, but compared to the expensive saddles I'd tried before the trip, it actually worked very well. In fact, I'd say the magic formula for taking care of your behind is any saddle you don't hate + a gel cover for extra comfort + a medium sized pot of Sudocrem cream!

ON THE BIKE and RIDER

Sunglasses (dark lenses) Sunglasses are not essential but they're a big help on bright days, especially when cycling east in the morning. They make you look cool as well, and that's the main thing ;-) Unfortunately, I lost my original sunglasses during my very first day in France! They were replaced by the only product available in a pharamacy I stopped at a few days later and the new ones did OK although the polarising lenses made it hard to see my smartphone screen sometimes.
Hiking shoes These turned out to be a good choice of footwear. I only took one pair of shoes with me. With the big Nukeproof pedals under them, the tough soles made pedalling comfortable. Off the bike, I had comfortable but robust footwear for general use and for the two hikes I undertook. They have Goretex uppers and my feet stayed mostly dry on the rare occasions I cycled in rain.
Frame bag The one I took was a last minute substitution due to problems using my new smartphone holder (see next item). I've previously been critical of this product for not being waterproof. Well, it's not! But given I rarely experienced rain, this was not a problem. What I did like was the fact I could mount my phone in it under it's transparent cover and it being a soft case, I could squeeze the case to indirectly press the phone's power button and switch the screen on to look at the map from the Organic Maps app or switch it off to save battery. Very easy in practice and it gave me complete control over how long the phone's screen was on, important for conserving battery. The only problem I had was that they clear screen acted rather like a greenhouse in hot weather which was a factor, I'm sure in my phone over-heating from time to time. The larger space beneath the sleeve that I slipped the phone into was perfect for cold drinks and bags of ice to solve that problem though! So all in all, this worked very nicely.
Smartphone holder The day before my trip, I abandoned my plan to use this holder! The holder itself seems very good but unfortunately, placing a phone into it triggers my phone's "pocket mode". It thinks it's in your pocket and so disables the touch screen, rendering the phone useless for functions like navigation unless you're prepared to remove the phone from the holder every time you want to look at the map. Android used to allow you to disable pocket mode detection, but I discovered that this was no longer possible and this meant I could not use this case and instead put my phone in the soft frame bag instead. It all worked out.
2 x Ortlieb panniers Tremendous. Space enough for my clothes, some of the camping gear like my sleeping mat, a computer, a Kindle, my plate and more besides. There seem to be lots of ways of carrying stuff on a bike these days. I see no reason why I'd want to use anything but my Ortlieb panniers and rack pack, though. Yes, I had everything mounted at the rear of the bike but honestly, this was fine. I did research ways of distributing load more evenly across the bike but front panniers require a front rack, which adds to the overall weight. Other options involved quite small storage capacity and I wasn't sure what I'd put in the new bags which was heavy enough to make a real difference. Some of the handlebar mounted bags looked OK as they didn't need much to mount them. I doubt I'll change my rear-mounting approach though, simply because it worked and I had plenty of space for everything I needed and more.
Ortlieb Rack Pack An excellent bit of kit. It's capacious and held my tent, its foot print, peg hammer, emergency food, clothes line and pegs, ziplock bags, cable ties, emergency shelter bag, gym bag and even a third bottle of water when the days were particularly hot. And more. All sorts of bits and pieces ended up in the Rackpack and I never filled it up. It clips into the panniers below, so it's part of a system rather than just a third bag you lash into place.
Saddle bag Did the job. Inner tube, multitool and tyre levers were in here.
Spare butyl inner tube(s) in saddle bag I used one when the bike shop that repaired my spoke damaged one of the Tubolito tubes. Obviously, unless you have tubeless tyres, you're going to want to take a spare inner tube or two. Personally, I'd say that two is the minimum you'd want.
Tyre levers in saddle bag Used once but clearly an essential tool.
Topeak Race Rocket HP Mini Pump Did surprisingly well. I was concerned its low capacity might be an issue but it was fine and allowed me to maintain a decent tyre pressure throughout with periodic topping up of the air in my tyres. Supports all valve types I've ever heard of.
Bike Lights I used my lights during several very early starts before sunrise and when the weather was wet, once in Spain and several times in England on the way home. They're USB-based rechargable lights so after using them, I'd always recharge during the next rest period. I used a smaller battery pack I carried in my bum bag to charge the lights, one at a time as it was easier than taking the lights off and charging them indoors with everything else. Essential and possibly a legal requirement in some countries.
Bike Padlock Did the job. A heavy but necessary item. If your bike gets stolen, that's the end of your trip!
2 padlock keys, one around neck, one in bum bag A good system. Lose your padlock key when your bike is chained to something solid and you're in big trouble!
Combination lock and chain for securing bags on the bike This became a pain and I stopped securing my bags. The odds of someone running off with your panniers whilst you're in a shop (probably the only time my bags would be unattended) are pretty slim. Not sure I'd even take these items again.
Bungee cord Used to further secure the Ortlieb Rack Pack so it would not move forwards or backwards. Was also useful to trap things under and carry them on the outside of the Rack Pack rather than inside. Various bottles of drink, damp clothing to be dried whilst cycling and my battery pack with its solar panels all ended up held in place by the versatile bungee cord. Worth having one even if you see no immediate use for it.
Suunto GPS watch Great. Recorded my ride every day and my two hikes and synced with Strava. It has a monochrome display and limited functionality which probably contributes to its excellent battery life.
2 x Water bottle Most days two bottles were enough or more than enough, particularly as I would often also drink coffee and bottles of sugary drinks. There were sometimes opportunities to refill bottles at water fountains in villages, too. But on longer rides and when the weather was particularly hot, I found it prudent to carry a 3rd bottle of water in the Rack Pack. I came close to running out of water in sparsely populated regions of France and Spain on a couple of occasions and was glad of the "emergency bottle of water". It was worth the extra weight.
Helmet Kind of important, don't you think?!
Bandana If you're as sweaty as me, something to stop said sweat from running into your eyes is pretty useful!
Race cape My Endura race cape was mostly used to keep me warm on colder days later in the trip (e.g. returning in England) or early in the morning sometimes. It is very windproof and warms you up over the top of a jersey, very quickly. I needed it to keep me dry once in Spain and a few times in England and... it didn't. It's old though, possibly 8 years old so I wouldn't blame Endura for this. It always used to work well and I intend to replace it with the newer Endura FS260 Pro Adrenaline Race Cape. Either way, you have to assume on a long trip in Europe, you'll encounter wet weather at some point and rather than heavier duty wet weather gear, this is what I chose to take in conjunction with over-trousers and over-shoes.
Fingerless gloves Frequently worn, especially early in the trip. Provided a bit of padding which helped keep my hands comfortable and helped stop the back of them getting sun-burned too!
Tuffbag waterproof bum bag The Tuffbag turned out to be a very good bit of kit. There are items you want with you all the time, when on the bike or off (e.g. shopping). The Tuffbag has a design like a dry-bag, with a roll top and I believe it to be completely waterproof. I carried my passport and other paperwork in it, my wallet, my face mask, my spork and Swiss Army knife, and as time went on, more and more stuff including whatever in-ride food I had with me like bananas and biscuits. I even ended up carrying my bike pump in it after the restraining rubber band it normally sits behind in the bike's frame mounting snapped. Comfortable, good capacity and definitely waterproof. Very handy.

IN THE ORTLIEB RACK PACK

MSR Hubba Hubba 2 person tent First, the positives. I was glad to have taken a two-person tent rather than a one-person tent. The extra space is very welcome on such a long trip.It's light enough at 1.6Kg, though you can doubtless get lighter tents. It's incredibly easy to put up and doesn't need a single tent peg if all you're using is the inner section. I used it like this when it was very hot. Ventilation is pretty good although with the fly sheet in place, airflow is obviously reduced. I like the mesh panels and the way you can see through them, especially when not using the fly sheet. The tent didn't let water in from above in the heavy rain experienced some evenings in the Picos de Europa. However (and here we'll look at the negatives), a couple of times at least, the floor was damp or actually wet after rain or a heavy dew. I don't think the footprint under the tent or the tent's integral groundsheet are completely waterproof. I also think the corners of the inner let in a little water where the seams meet. After getting home, I've sprayed the floor on the inside of the tent and the upper surface of the footprint with Nikwax Tent and Gear waterproofing. I also sprayed the inside corners. Time will tell as to whether this helps. On a different point, at one time I was seeing a lot of small ants inside the tent! I am still unclear how on earth they were getting in but it crossed my mind that maybe the mesh panels might be the entry point, though I never actually witnessed this. I did find a hole in one of the mesh panels and have fixed it with some sticky tape. How the hole came about is another question. Could an insect have cut through the mesh? A mystery.
MSR Footprint (ground sheet) Light, compact and easy to use. But is it waterproof? I suspect not fully.
Washing line Used many times. Definitely something to take. I ended up cutting a metre off it with my knife and using it to create a small line tied to loops in the roof of my tent so I could hang things up inside the tent for drying if necessary.
Pegs for washing line Ditto.
Plastic mallet Used whenever the ground was on the hard side. Definitely something to take. Mine is fairly light but was tough enough.
Microfibre cloth Very useful. I ended up buying a few more and used one for washing the bike, one for cleaning and degreasing the chain and one for drying. They were kept in a ziplock bag to keep them away from other items in my bag.
Saddle cover Very useful! I put this on the bike at the end of every day so that I didn't have to sit on a wet saddle in the morning!
Trowel and biodegradable paper (leave no trace!) Not used once in the way I'd anticipated! I did use the paper at campsites a few times though as some campsites expect you to bring your own. I was glad I had some!
4 x ziplock plastic bags for food. I ended up buying more ziplock bags (freezer bags in fact) as these were so useful. I used them for all sorts of things but generally as a means of organising the various bits and pieces in my large bag. Once, I used one of the bags as a rubbish bag at a campsite where you were expected to take your rubbish home. No, I didn't bring my rubbish home! But I did bag it up and drop it in a public rubbish bin when the opportunity arose.
Plastic carrier bag for rubbish Not used for rubbish! In fact my tough plastic carrier bag ended up being my shoe bag and tent doormat. I dealt with rubbish as it was created, usually dropping it in the campsite bins whenever I went to the shower block.
Plastic shoe bag (shoes outside tent, snails outside shoes!) This is a must. I saw some enormous slugs in Spain. I really wouldn't want to find one in my shoe in the morning!
Waterproof over-trousers I used these once in Spain and a few times cycling home across England in September. They are exactly what they claim to be. Waterproof and light. I was impressed with them but I think cycling in them made me a little sore. I had cycling shorts on underneath but wonder if the over-trousers introduced creases and other sources of friction. Definitely an item to take on long trips where the weather will inevitably be variable.
Waterproof over-shoes These were not a success. Despite having bought the XL size, stretching them over my walking shoes was difficult and when I removed them at the end of the only day they were used, I found that both had ripped underneath and near to the toe. Weirdly the uppers of my shoes were both quite wet and I'm not sure how that was possible. Either way, they didn't work for me and I won't be replacing the torn pair.
Matches Not used. I thought I might have a camp fire at some point but the opportunity did not arise. I'd take matches again though.
Cable ties I used one to allow me to hang my solar pannel equipped battery back from my bike so it could charge while I was cycling. I see them as a potentially very useful item and would take a few on any future trips, for sure.
Maintenance gloves Very useful. Kept my hands clean when handling the bike's chain.
Scissors I cut my toe nails with them! Hey, I was away for two and a half months!
Sticky tape Handy to have. Fixed an issue with one of my shoes. Patched a hole in one of the mesh panels of my tent.
Pliers Essential. Amongst other things, I used them to pull a piece of metal from my rear tyre! I didn't have a puncture but if I'd left the metal where it was, maybe I would have eventually.
Screw driver I don't think I used this. Clearly still something to have in the tool kit though.
Valve adapters Not used. Except for the fact that they are small and weigh little, I wouldn't take them again. But now I have them, they may as well stay in the tool kit.
Allen key for limit screws For me, this was essential as my multitool's allen keys are too large for the limit screws on my derailleur. I'm glad I thought to take this tool as I needed it a few times.
Chain lube Essential. On a long trip like this you really need to look after your chain. Simply pouring lube on it every week is no good either! Clean thoroughly first, allow to dry and then lubricate! I went through this routine once a week and my chain is still in good condition after nearly three thousand miles of cycling. I used my original bottle of lube and bought some more in Spain.
Tool bag with selected bike tools Essential. See my post on Tools and Spares.
Chain links Not used but an essential spare to take.
2 x Puncture repair kit and patches (Butyl and Tubolito) Clearly, a puncture repair kit is an essential item to take on any bikepacking trip. Unless you're running tubeless that is! I had no punctures but one of my Tubolito tubes did get torn when a shop repaired a broken spoke for me. I patched the tear but did not fit the tube again as the tear was right next to the valve, a tricky place to patch and I wasn't convinced the repair would hold. I've since put some air in this tube and left it overnight and it held the air so it seems the repair is good enough and the tube has been retained as a spare.
Spoke key Not used but I'd take it again.
Spokes Not used but a couple of spare spokes seem worth taking.
Gym bag for groceries Used almost every day. I'd stop at a shop on the way to the campsite, take the gym bag with me into the store and fill it with whatever groceries I bought. I could then cycle to the campsite with the gym bag on my back. I also used it to take misc. items like my laptop, its power supply, glasses, Kindle and so on to the campsite bar where I'd sit and blog. In short, a light, foldable but strong bag you can carry on your back like this one is very useful.

IN THE TUFFBAG BUM BAG

Swiss army knife A sad tale. I lost this beautiful Swiss Army knife at the campsite in Guise, France! Quite how I lost it I do not know, but that was the last place I saw it. I bought a new Swiss Army knife at a hunting shop in Neufchateau as a good knife is essential. Of its various tools, I used the knife for food preparation pretty much every day and the can opener a few times.
Bike multi-tool I didn't use my multitool once. An essential item, however.
Phone Another essential item! I used my Android smartphone for in-ride navigation, using the Organic Maps application and for all the other things you use a phone for. I researched and booked accomodation using it, messaged people at home, took photos and videos and so on. My OnePlus phone did very well in some respects but not in others. The battery life was excellent. I could have got through two days without charging it if I'd needed to. Charging is super quick, too. The biggest issue I had was that it over-heated on hot days, which was a major headache that resulted in me routinely buying cold cans of Coke or obtaining bags of ice cubes with which to cool the phone in my frame bag. The camera was next to useless when zoomed in on a subject too, with the autofocus struggling.
Sunblock I didn't take enough and in my first week in France ended up buying a large tube of Factor 50! Obviously, this is an essential item for summer cycling.
Small notepad and pencil I didn't use this and I doubt I'd take these items again.
Face mask Necessary. I used mine when in crowded spaces like when queueing to go down to the car deck on a ferry. In Spain they were mandatory on public transport.
Smaller battery pack for emergency in-ride charging I didn't use this for emergency charging as my main battery pack lasted very well and I never needed to top my phone up during a ride. I did find this smaller battery pack very convenient as a way of charging my USB lights without removing them from the bike though and would take this extra battery pack again.
Hand sanitizer I don't think I used this once! It's no longer 2020, I guess :-)
Short USB-C cable for charging in a cafe (e.g.) I didn't use this the way I'd envisaged but I did use it, simply as a second USB-C cable. On rest days in an apartment, it meant I could charge both my phone and my main battery pack at the same time.
Passport Somewhat important! Although the fact is, the only time my passport was checked was as I left England and on return.
Covid vaccination details (printed) Nobody ever asked to see these details.
Insurance details (printed) Nobody ever asked to see these details.
Ferry ticket (printed) A printed copy wasn't necessary but was probably wise to have.
Accomodation details (printed) I had read that French border control might ask to see proof of where you were staying. This didn't happen.
Pocket picnic blanket Useful. I sat or lay outside my tent on this a few times.
Power multi-adapter without the UK part Essential. I'd charge devices from my large battery pack most days but around once a week, stayed in an apartment or rented room and used this adapter to let me charge my battery pack and all my other devices. I also used it on campsites to plug in to the power sockets at the bar or sometimes in the shower block. Having a single adapter for a mains plug like my laptop uses and for USB devices was very useful.

IN THE ORTLIEB PANNIERS

Alpkit down sleeping bag The manufacturer's claim that this bag is good down to temperatures as low as 7 degrees C is nonsense in my opinion and experience. I start to feel the chill at 12 or 13 degrees. So on cooler nights, I use mine in conjunction with a silk liner. If that's not enough, I wear various clothes. A merino wool hat, a long sleeved cycling jersey and merino wool leggings. On this trip, I used everything except the leggings. I doubt the night temperature was ever lower than 10 degrees and yet all these additions were required. Don't get me wrong, for a summer bikepacking trip, this sleeping bag is good. Packs small. Weighs little. But I had to plan for a large range of possible temperatures and layering was the solution.
Silk liner Excellent. I slept in this alone on warmer nights and added it to the Alpkit sleeping bag on the colder nights. Its thermal insulation is quite impressive and it packs very small.
Sea to Summit inflatable pillow This pillow is actually excellent. I was surprised how impressed I was with it when I first used it.
Survival bag I'm happy to say that I never used this item. I'm glad I have it though and it will be coming with me on future trips.
Thermarest NeoAir XLite sleeping pad Very comfortable and light and compact to pack. Takes a while to inflate compared with my old self-inflating thermarest but it's much more comfortable, quite a bit lighter and takes up less space when packed.
Sea to Summit collapsible plate Good. Did the job and is still going strong. When extended, the sides are quite high so it works well as a shallow bowl, not just as a plate. Look at my photos of camping mush to see!
Sea to Summit Spork Rubbish. Broke in half when I wasn't even using it. Came out of the pannier that way. Replaced with a reassuringly expensive titanium spork which is what I'd now recommend. Light. Strong. Functional.
Chromebook and power supply Excellent. Light. Battery lasts 10 hours. I only wish it was powered by USB-C rather than its custom power supply. I was definitely happy to have it on this trip for blogging, route planning and for watching movies and TV shows occasionally. There are still some things I just don't think it's easy to do on a phone.
Kindle Brilliant. My faithful friend on this trip.
Aikove 30000mAh Power Bank pack (solar) Did really well. I don't think it was ever at less than half capacity. I did use other power sources to charge my phone when available though and this of course made me less reliant on the power bank. But this combination of approaches to charging certainly enabled me to meet my power needs each week with ease. Generally I was only concerned with charging my phone and GPS watch on a daily basis. Other devices (and the power bank) could be charged once a week when I was under a proper roof. The value of the integral solar panels is questionable however. I mounted the power bank on the rear of my bike one hot and sunny day and rode all day with the sun shining directly on the panels. There's no numerical indication of the state of the battery pack, only a row of six LEDs so I cannot be sure what impact solar charging had, if any. All I know is that the number of lit LEDs did not change after a day in the sun. I might consider a proper USB solar panel for my bike in the future although as I said, I never really had problems with the availability of power and this power bank did a good job for me.
Helmet lamp Essential for in the tent and walking in the campsite after dark. I replaced the two AAA batteries once.
Wax ear plugs Essential! Campsites can be noisy places and I generally wanted to go to sleep soon after dark, no matter how early that was. I sometimes slept in the afternoon too. Wax ear plugs actually work and made this possible.
Sleep mask Useful if you find yourself trying to sleep in bright conditions. Some campsites go overboard with lighting at night and if you end up camped right under one of their lights, a sleep mask will be valuable.
Travel towel Basically a big microfibre cloth, I was amazed at how well this towel worked. Very absorbant, dries very quickly, packs small and doesn't weigh much. Perfect.
Earphones Sometimes I listened to music on my phone. Wired earphones were chosen rather than wireless so I didn't end up with yet more things with batteries I needed to charge. It was good to have these available to me. I used them with my Chromebook occasionally too.
First Aid kit inc. Plasters, Sudocrem and Covid tests I used a few plaster for blisters on my feet. I used Savlon ointment for insect bites when I was eaten alive by mosquitoes in Italy. And Sudocrem is incredible and helped sooth and ultimately cure saddle sores! Definitely one to take on all trips.
Water purification tablets Not used. Take up almost no space though so worth having in the kit.
Salt and pepper In a handy plastic dispenser, I was glad to have these basic spices to improve the flavour of camping mush!
Tabasco Ditto. Good to have.
Emergency rations - nuts and instant mashed potato Never needed as I was never stuck in the middle of nowhere but on any future trip, I would always plan to have some high calory non-perishable food in my bag, just in case.
TV and movies to watch on SD cards A bit of entertainment is very much worth having. When you're physically tired, lying down and reading, listening or watching is all you'll want to do. Oh, and sleep too of course.

FRAME BAG
Smartphone tripod I only used the tripod a few times but I was glad to have the option.

CLOTHING

2 x cycle shorts, 2 x cycling jerseys, 2 pairs socks Two sets of cycling gear were enough though it is a fact that after three days of cycling in the same kit, your clothes are unlikely to smell quite as fresh as you might like! I had hot, dry weather most of my trip so I was able to hand-wash the day's cycling clothes after showering, hang it on my washing line and have it dry and ready for the next day within a couple of hours. As a system, this worked fine for me and I wouldn't want to take more cycling clothes than this.
Yellow long sleeved thermal cycling jersey This kept me warm on a few chilly mornings. I never wore it for a full day. It also made for an effective, extra layer to keep me warm on colder nights when the sleeping bag and silk liner were not quite enough.
Merino wool thermal leggings (chilly in the mountains at night!) I never used them but was glad I had them. If it had got a degree or two colder at night than the coldest of the nights I experienced, then my next step would have been to wear the leggings. Part of my layering system for handling a wide temperature range.
Craghopper convertible trousers/shorts These were a good idea. In cooler weather, they were worn as full length trousers. In warmer weather, I unzipped the legs and turned them into shorts.
Swimming trunks I used these a lot! Yes, I did sometimes swim in them when a campsite had a pool. But they became my default choice for shorts to change into after a shower during the weeks when the temperature was at its hottest.
Merino wool hat I bought this in northern France at a Decathlon store during my first week, after experiencing a very cold morning. I was concerned that it might be very cold in the Swiss mountains at night and surprised to find I hadn't packed a warm hat despite it being on my packing list! Doh! Anyway, the hat did its job and helped keep me warm at night in northern Spain and England, later in my trip when it was much cooler. I'd definitely take a hat on future trips.
Gloves Also bought in northern France after a very cold morning where my hands were hurting on the bike, it was so cold. In the event, I never actually used the gloves. They were good to have available and I'd take them again.

Saturday, 17 September 2022

Bikepacking - Spares and Tools

If it can go wrong.... it might go wrong!

When planning my recent 2022 European cycle tour, I obviously gave some thought to things that might go wrong and in particular, things that might go wrong with the bike. In fact this subject kept me up at night as the date of my departure got closer! Cracks had been found in the rear wheel of The Mule when it was being serviced. The wheel was replaced but the discovery shook my confidence in the bike. What other problems would I have? Would I be able to solve problems and repair things on the road?

It's probably as well to assume the worst and, within reason, plan for all kinds of bike failures. You won't be able to fix everything (unless you have a support vehicle carrying every bike repair tool and spare under the sun!) so when deciding what to take, the goal is to make sure you can fix the obvious, more likely types of problem like punctures, or affect temporary workarounds which might just allow you to limp into the nearest town that has a bike shop. Your own abilities to make repairs will be a factor too, of course.

My bike repair skills are limited. I can repair punctures. I can repair a broken chain. I can replace cables. I might just be able to repair a broken spoke but there's no way I'd get the wheel "true" again. I can make adjustments to the derailleur. That's about it. If the bottom bracket bearings go, I need a shop. If the chain and cassette need replacing, I have the know-how but would not be carrying the tools required or the spares and so would need a shop for that too.

So, what did I take with me on the 2022 European cycle tour and what else did I acquire en route?

Spares


2 x butyl inner tubes

I set out with Tubolito TPU puncture-resistant inner tubes in both the front and rear. They're expensive tubes so I took standard butyl tubes to act as spares. The theory was that if I got a puncture on the road, I'd swap out the inner tubes to get the bike up and running again and later, repair the punctured tube at my next campsite, at which point the repaired tube would become a spare.

Chain Quick-Links

Chains don't break very often but it does happen. Luckily, repairing a broken chain is not difficult provided you have a chain breaker tool. My Park Tool multi-tool includes a chain breaker. You then have a choice of a full repair using chain quick-links or a temporary improvised repair that shortens the chain by one link. It will get you to that bike shop, if nothing else. I blogged about repairing a broken chain a while back.

Spokes and Spoke Nipples

Spokes hook onto the hub at one and and screw into a special kind of nut called a spoke nipple at the other. 

A spoke nipple is wide at one end and narrow at the other. The wider end of a spoke nipple is to be found on the inside of the wheel rim so you can't usually see it unless you remove the tyre and rim tape. The narrow part pokes through a hole in the rim and you can see it. It's threaded, and when the spoke end is inserted into it and tightened, it tensions the spoke. 

The tension created by each spoke needs to be balanced otherwise the wheel distorts and appears to wobble from side to side when the wheel rotates. "Truing" a wheel to get that overall balance is quite difficult outside of a proper workshop, however.

I've had spoke nipples shear off at their base a couple of times. On both occasions it happened on the front wheel of my touring bike and with that history I'd considered replacing the whole wheel before heading off into Europe. Ironically, my local bike shop talked me out of it! And guess what the only mechanical failure was that I had in nearly 3,000 miles of cycling? Yes, that's right. A spoke nipple broke!

I took two spare spokes and a few spoke nipples with me. The theory was that if necessary, I could do a rough repair at the roadside and then cycle to a town to get it done properly and the wheel properly "trued".

Spare Tyre

I didn't take a spare tyre with me. But after about 1500 miles of cycling, the rear tyre was very clearly wearing fast. All my luggage is attached to a rack at the rear of the bike so with all that weight concentrated over the rear wheel, this was no surprise. I decided therefore to buy a spare tyre and fit it when either the rear one failed (worst case) or when I judged the time to be right. What I didn't want was to be caught out with a major tyre failure, a long way from a town. So, for a long trip, a spare tyre is likely to be necessary. Whether you take one with you from the start or buy it en route is a choice to make.

Carrying a spare tyre is impractical if you buy one with a rigid rim, but luckily these days you can get foldable tyres which have a flexible kevlar rim. I went into a large Decathlon store in Peripgnan, France and bought a foldable gravel tyre made by French company, Hutchinson. When folded it was easily stowed in the larger of my three bags. I had it fitted by a bike shope when I had my broken spoke/spoke nipple replaced and it ended up doing about 800 miles of the trip, without issue.

Spare Cable
My bike has hydraulic disc brakes but gear selection uses cables. A broken cable can leave you stuck in top gear, which depending on your gear ratios and the terrain can mean your only realistic option is to start walking! So, a spare cable is definitely worth taking.

Tools

I put together a selection of tools, most of which I carried in a simple, lightweight canvas bag stowed in my large Ortlieb Rack Pack.


In addition, I carried a pair of mechanic's gloves which make some jobs easier and keep your hands free from oil, especially if you need to handle the chain, for example. 



A few times, my chain jumped off the smallest cog of the cassette and got jammed between the frame. Freeing it is quite hard and involves grasping the oily chain firmly and pulling. I was glad of my mechanic's gloves on these occasions.

I carry a multi-tool by Park Tool which has most tools you're likely to need, but not quite all. Importantly, it does include a chain breaker.


In the Tool Bag

Here's what I had in the tool bag.


On the top row, from left to right:
1. Special repair kit for Tubolito TPU inner tubes.

2. One under the other in the photo, two packs of self-adhesive puncture repair patches. I've used these once only in the past but was impressed with how well they work and how easy they are to use.

3. Standard puncture repair kit for butyl tubes.

Clearly I was expecting to have lots of punctures and in the event, had none whatsoever!

4. Gorilla tape. This is a heavy duty, self-adhesive tape for general repairs. I used it to cover a small hole in my tent and to sort out an issue with one of my shoes. Useful stuff.

5. Zip-lock bag containing spare spoke nipples, chain quick links and valve adapters that convert a presta value to the schrader type. I thought they might be useful in case I wanted to use a compressed air machine at a filling station. They were never used. Seemed like a good idea at the time.

6. Another set of chain quick links. 

On the second row:

7. Chain lubricant. I really looked after my chain on the Europe 2022 trip. On average, once a week I would thoroughly scrub the oil and grit off the chain using a micro-fibre cloth, soap and water. I'd then  rinse the chain, leave it to dry and then lubricate. The chain performed well and doesn't yet need replacing so regular chain maintenance is definitely worth the effort.

8. A small flat screwdriver with a piece of cork to prevent it damaging the tool bag.

9. A small cross screwdriver with cork protector.

10. A pair of nail scissors with cork protector.  

11. Chain connector aid. I've only used this once but it was really useful! It acts as a third pair of hands for when you're joining the two ends of a chain. I have this one.

12. Spoke wrench for tightening spokes after fitting.

13. Small allen key. This was specifically for the rear derailleur limit screws on my touring bike. My multi-tool would not have been able to tighten these screws and when the chain jumped beyond the smallest cog, it was one of the limit screws I had to adjust to resolve the issue so I was glad I'd thought to take this tool.

14. Pliers. Invaluable and used several times.

That's it! Your needs and priorities may vary, of course.

Friday, 16 September 2022

Europe 2022 - Looking Back

The Trip of a Lifetime? Quite possibly!

I'd wanted to make a big cycling trip for many years and finally I've done it! I explained the background to this trip in an earlier post.

I maintained a daily travelogue during the trip, posting an account of each day and photographs. I thought I'd round things off with a final review.


Highlights

I have been asked several times which place I liked best. That's a tough one as there were so many stand out places and so few places I wasn't keen on. So rather than pick one place, here are the highlights.

Northern France
I crossed north-eastern France at the start of my trip and enjoyed the gentle agricultural landscapes, the villages, the excellent roads and ... the food! I met some really nice people here, as well.

Crossing the Swiss Alps
I crossed the Swiss Alps in a few stages, starting by cycling up to Andermatt from Lake Lucerne. I felt a great sense of achievement arriving in Andermatt after several hours of climbing. To be honest, it wasn't that hard but I'd really built this one up in my mind so was really happy when I made it to Andermatt! The next stage involved more climbing up to the very top via the San Gotthard Pass and then a totally brilliant descent down the old Tremola road with its amazing cobbles and tight, hair-pin bends. It was very exciting!
The Birds of Northern Italy
I spent quite a few days cycling through farmland in Northern Italy, heading west away from Pavia. The terrain is flat and the farmland is watered by an extensive network of irrigation channels. The irrigation attracts all sorts of fairly large birds like Storks, Herons and Egrets. It was a pleasure to see them as I passed through the landscape.
The Ligurian Alps
I'd never heard of the Ligurian Alps before this trip. I was forced to change my route due to a collapsed tunnel and ended up spending two days crossing this mountain range. The cycling was glorious and the scenery lovely. I really enjoyed this unexpected detour.
The Camargue Region
I cycled through the Camargue region in southern France which is a large area of wetlands and loved seeing the wildlife, mostly birds and including a surprising number of flamingoes and the biggest Stork's nests I've ever seen!
The French Pyrenees
I loved the French side of the Pyrenees mountains! I cycled close to and north of them for hundreds of miles as I worked my way west across southern France from Perpignan towards and just beyond Lourdes. The further west I got, the more I liked this part of France. It's green and quiet and it contains numerous Tour de France climbs of which I found myself cycling at least two in full (Col de Saint Louis and Col du Pourtalet) and part of another (Col d'Aubisque). Crossing the Pyrenees into Spain via Col du Pourtalet was definitely a high point. The 18 mile climb was wonderful and the scenery at the top amazing. Crossing an international border from France into Spain at the top of a mountain was kind of special too! And I'll never forget seeing a flock of Griffon Vultures. Amazing.
Picos de Europa
A range of mountains and national park in northern Spain, the Picos were just lovely. My first day in the park, cycling north for 40 miles towards Potes stands out as another of the best days of cycling I've ever had. Once in the park, I camped at three different locations and cycled quite a long way through it, getting to see various parts of this scenic Spanish jewel. I did some hiking too and walking the Cares Gorge trail in both directions was one of the most enjoyable hikes I've ever done.


Food

I went into the trip, thinking about food only in terms of nutrition and performance. I knew I'd be burning thousands of calories each day and that my body would need protein for muscle repair. What I hadn't considered is what a delight the food might be sometimes as well! My favourite foods were:

1. Every pain au chocolat eaten in France! Fresh baked from the village boulangerie. My mouth is watering as I type this!

2. A salmon and broccoli quiche which I bought at a patisserie in Northern France. I've had salmon and broccoli quiche before. You can buy them in my local supermarket. But not like this! OMG it was amazing. I had to hold it in both hands from underneath as the delicate pastry threatened to fall apart. And the flavours! "Wow" is all I can say!
 
3. Pesto in Italy. Where else? I bought a couple of small, plastic tubs of pesto with peel back lids at a supermarket near Rosanna, picking them up more or less at random. The pesto was added to a bowl of camping mush, on this occasion based on couscous, tomatoes and tuna. The flavour was startling! Bright, potent, fresh! It made me realise how bland the pesto we normally buy in the UK is!

4. Pasta in Italy. Where else?! I didn't go in for eating in restaurants much on this trip. But on the one occasion I did (not counting campsite "restaurants"), I had Linguine Tricolore and it was amazing. No surprise given I was in Italy, I guess but it certainly deserves a mention.

The delicious linguine tricolore



5. Spanish Cheese. Cheese in general to be honest, but the cheese I had in northern Spain was all fantastic and due to my complete ignorance of the food in northern Spain, a very pleasant surprise!
Spanish cheese

A selection of French cheeses I had in Neufchateau


People

I met lots of nice people on this trip. Sometimes encounters were short but memorable nevertheless. On other occasions I spent more time with people. I think every encounter I had was positive. I can't remember anything negative involving people I met at all. 

The positive experience of meeting people started to register on my first day in France where a total stranger, whose house I'd paused in front of, offered to fill my water bottles. And the young man in his car who stopped by me at traffic lights and then had an enthusiastic conversation with me about cycling.

My favourite memories are of people I stayed with, however. I used Homecamper three times as I crossed northern France and so several times, camped in the garden of people's homes. 

In Vimy, I met Irek and Elisabeth, who made me very welcome and went out of their way to ensure I was comfortable.

In Chuffily-Roche, I met Christian, a farmer and very interesting and friendly man, who showed me around the locale and chatted with me about all sorts of things as I camped in the garden of his beautiful house.

In Vassincourt, I stayed with a lovely family. Brice, his wife Aurore (hope I spelled her name correctly) and their two children, a baby girl and a "bright as a button", interested in everything, five year old boy who I regret not being able to chat with in French because he really wanted to talk with me! I spent a very pleasant time talking with Brice and Aurore in the evening. Brice made an excellent suggestion regarding my route for the next day and by following his advice, I enjoyed twenty miles of cycling along a beautiful canal.

Of course I also stayed at many campsites. These varied enormously. My favourite was Agricampeggio Monviso, which is first and foremost a farm but which allows some low impact, simple camping in one of the fields. I loved staying there and enjoyed meeting the family who owned the farm. Anna and her husband, Peio really helped me when it turned out my plan to cycle to Tende in France was impossible due to a collapsed tunnel. Peio very patiently helped my plot a new route which took me to the coast via the Ligurian Alps, which I would otherwise never have seen.

And then there was Michael and Laura who I met in a forest north of Milano. They cycled and chatted with me as I worked my way south on trails, before Michael volunteered to be my personal guide and cycled a further 16 miles out of his way, just to show me an efficient route through the forest towards my campsite. It was an incredibly considerate and helpful act. 

I met lots of other travellers too and loved chatting with them about their trips, whether it was a bikepacking trip like mine or simply a family holiday.

And finally, special mention has to go to the many bar staff in Italy, France and Spain who always helped me out by giving me a bag full of ice cubes to keep my phone from over-heating! Thank you, whoever you were!


Books

I read a lot on this trip. After a hard day cycling, relaxing with a good book was a great way to spend time. I read four books in full and was about halfway through a fifth when I got home. All were by the writer Cormac McCarthy. In the order that I read them on this trip, the books I read were:


and I am currently close to finishing The Crossing.

Equipment

I took a lot of stuff with me. How did it do? I'll post separately on this topic soon!

Tuesday, 13 September 2022

Bikepacking - Ropley Dean to Banstead

Day # 76 State of Legs :-)

Distance (miles) Distance (km) Ascent (feet) Ascent (metres) Punctures
Today 56 miles km 3002 feet metres 0
Trip Totals 2943 miles km 135443 feet metres 0


Today's Route
Route So Far

Travelogue

So this is it. The final day of my tour of Europe.

Today's weather was not exactly pleasant! It rained most of the day and to begin with I had to contend with quite a strong headwind. The wind died down further on into the ride but I did get very wet and a little cold. My rather old rain jacket is past its prime and will be "retired" now, I think.

My route, generated by the cycle.travel route planner once again was largely made up of National Cycle Network routes and so included a large proportion of no traffic or low traffic roads and paths. This made for some good cycling, albeit rather slow due to the conditions.

















Somewhere near Guildford, I was cycling a narrow, single track lane when on going round a bend, I found the way blocked by a huge truck of the sort used to deliver tractors. In fact it had just delivered a JCB to a construction site. There were five guys on the site and they saw me looking at the truck. I asked them if they could possibly let me through (thinking they could move the truck a bit and then I could squeeze past). One of the guys came over and offered to carry my bike (and bags) past! I explained it was really heavy and that lifting it by the wrong part might break something.... so, "no thank you!". He offered again and I explained that I had twenty miles left to cycle of a 2,900+ mile ride and didn't want to invite any "mishaps" and he said...

"***ing hell! 2,900 miles? Blimey mate, that's amazing!

"Hey Bob, this geezer's cycled 2,900 miles! On his bike!", he shouted across to the others.

"Good on yer mate, that's amazing!"

And so on :-)

The others all came over and we spent the next 15 minutes talking. They were full of praise and of questions and a few stories about cycling they'd done, such as the famous London to Brighton Bike Ride. They were really nice guys, very friendly and genuine.

The truck eventually got moved and I continued, shortly afterwards, arriving in and cycling through the town of Guildford.




As I got closer to home, I sent my wife my position, at intervals. And eventually, I turned into my own road, cycled a few hundred metres and there was my house with my wife stood in the drive to welcome me and take some photos :-)





And before I close, could we please take a moment to pay our respects to The Mule. An ordinary and modestly priced mountain bike which has carried me and my stuff nearly 3,000 miles with very nearly no problems at all. Zero punctures (think about that!) and only a broken spoke nipple after all those miles and all those challenging roads and trails. Brilliant. I shall be treating The Mule to a new front wheel and perhaps some other bits very soon. And a thorough wash!

Ladies and gentlemen, I give you.... The Mule!!! :-)

I'll be posting one more time about this trip, reviewing the highlights and evaluating what went well, what I'd change if I did it again, what equipment worked, what did not and so on. Watch this space!

I shall be focusing my energies on food, sofa and TV for the rest of the day. And my lovely wife!