The Bikepacker: Bikepacking 2024 - Markina-Xemein to Bermeo

Day #

State of Legs

:-)

	Distance (miles)	Distance (km)	Ascent (feet)	Ascent (metres)	Punctures
Today	27.4 miles	km	2615 feet	metres	1
Trip Totals	1086.2 miles	km	31001 feet	metres	1

Today's Route

Route So Far

Travelogue

We only had about 25 miles to cycle today but with thunderstorms forecast in the afternoon, we were somewhat motivated to get going straight after breakfast.

Last night we'd reviewed our planned route and made a few changes to reduce the amount of unpaved path we'd have to cycle, not knowing what the surface would be like but suspecting it might be tough or impossible on bikes. The Camino de Santiago passes through these parts and whatever its official designation regarding cycling and walking, M1 has prior experience of it and it is NOT all good for cycling.

That said, we still fell into a trap of our own making. Immediately after leaving Markina-Xemein, the route was set to follow a river on an unpaved path of some sort. Cycling by a river is usually excellent. The path is flat, there's a nice view of a river to the left or right (sometimes both!) and our experience has generally been that the surface is either good quality gravel or irrespective of what the map might say, it's actually paved i.e. concrete or tarmac. It couldn't hurt to keep that part of the route unchanged we thought. And so that's what we did. We didn't move the first few miles of route onto the adjacent road because cycling by a river is always good.

Except that it isn't! And it most certainly wasn't in this case.

We left the hotel and cycled back to the town through the park we'd cycled through yesterday. It's a small town and we soon reached the river on the other side and joined the path alongside it.

Only minutes later we found our way blocked by a gate and with a gap that only pedestrians could get through. DISASTER!

"Oh hang on, if we slide that little bolt over, the gate can be opened" commented M1.

So, not even a SLIGHT INCONVENIENCE on this occasion.

On we went. The surface varied considerably. And on turning a corner into a wooded area, DISASTER!

Well not quite. But definitely a MODERATE INCONVENIENCE. The path was very narrow, went up and down very steeply in short segments of 2 metres and was absolutely riddled with big tree roots. We got off to push, with barely enough space to walk with the bikes, always at risk of tumbling down the bank into the river. To make matters worse we then encountered a group of workmen who were clearing vegetation from the path. There wasn't really room for all of us but luckily they found ways to move aside and let us through. Heaving the bikes over this section was very physical and quite a challenge.

But we made it.

It was very still with no discernible breeze and very humid, too. No more than 4 miles from the hotel and we were both hot and bothered from the conditions and the exertion. But we made it. The path improved a little and eventually we breathed a sigh of relief as we rejoined the road and that most exalted of surfaces, tarmac!

We passed through the village of Ziortza-Bolibar and gazed in awe at the statue of its most famous son.

Shortly after, the road started to ascend. This was the start of the day's biggest climb which took us to the top of gontzagarigana-aitzabel which has featured in at least one of the Vuelta a España cycle races. It was never super-steep so we didn't find it too hard and were able to enjoy the views as we progressed slowly upwards in our lower gears. As always, the descent after the top was great fun!

And we were not alone. We saw lots and lots of road cyclists today. Whether this was typical or there was something going on, we have no idea.

We stopped in a small village called Munitibar-Arbatzegi-Gerrikaitz for coffee. The bar had a cycling jersey and shorts framed and on the wall. The jersey was for the UAE Emirates professional racing team and it had been signed. A photo of the cyclist that wears it was also in the frame with the clothing. It looks like it's Tadej Pogačar though what he would have been doing in that bar, who knows!

We passed through the town of Guernika, famous for a painting of that name by Pablo Picasso.

We'd assumed that with "the big climb" behind us, it would now be plane sailing (yes, that *is* the correct spelling of "plane" here!) but we were wrong. The remaining 10 miles felt like we were cycling repeatedly across San Francisco and back again, up and down, up and down. Long, straight and fairly steep climbs and then descents. Quite the roller coaster. But all such things do eventually come to an end and we were pleased when Bermeo came into view, with its large harbour.

Finding our accommodation and gaining entry proved a little tricky but eventually everything fell into place. The apartment is great and overlooks the harbour we'd seen on the way in.

We've had a bit of a walk around the town and sorted out groceries for later as well. M1 has scrubbed the bike chains clean (they really needed it!) and will lubricate them tomorrow.

Relaxation is now the order of business!

Oh and we just heard thunder and it's now absolutely pouring down. Good timing. And what's more, we can see a double rainbow over the harbour from our apartment window!

Photos.....