The Bikepacker: Bikepacking 2024

Day #

State of Legs

:-)

	Distance (miles)	Distance (km)	Ascent (feet)	Ascent (metres)	Punctures
Today	32.4 miles	km	2881 feet	metres	1
Trip Totals	1151.8 miles	km	39302 feet	metres	1

Today's Route

Route So Far

Travelogue

Some time ago we realised that we were significantly ahead of schedule on this trip. As a result, we extended the route to be cycled in Spain, adding a loop that started and ended in Bilbao from which we'd eventually catch a ferry back to England. We reached Bilbao yesterday and this morning started cycling the extension loop, heading more or less south with the town of Orduña our destination.

It had poured down yesterday evening and the forecast for today was of sporadic rain, so we were expecting to get wet and had waterproof jackets at the ready.

Leaving Bilbao was easy and traffic on the roads was light. We passed by a football stadium and shortly afterwards joined a cycle path that followed the Nervión river for a time.

The cycle path ended and we continued on the road but still with the river to our right. Soon, we were in a long valley with steep hills on either side and a motorway somewhere out of sight, also following the valley.

As we slowed to check the map at a roundabout, a young cyclist on a road bike passed us and said something about the road being closed at some town. We didn't recognise the name of the town and weren't sure whether this was an issue for us or not. We continued on our way.

It was an issue. On the other side of Alonsotegi we were brought to a halt by a police officer stood in the middle of the road, turning back all traffic. DISASTER!

The police officer spoke to us in Spanish, which of course we did not understand. Switching to English, she explained that the road was impassable but that she wasn't exactly sure where the problem was and where the road re-opened. We were unable to find out why the road was closed, either.

Not to worry, we'll just find a way around on the map, we thought. So, really this was no more than a SLIGHT INCONVENIENCE.

But there really was no way around. The geography, with those hills either side of the valley and the motorway and river running down it, meant that there was nowhere else for any side road to go. Our only option seemed to be cycling back almost as far as Bilbao and then making a wide and lengthy detour. DISASTER!

The police officer noted our consternation and asked where we were trying to get to. We showed her our route. She said that she had turned back a couple of local cyclists earlier and they had told her that they planned to take a train a few stops down the line with their bikes and get past the closed road that way. What a great idea and suggestion, we thought! BARELY AN INCONVENIENCE AT ALL!

So, we cycled back into Alonsotegi and across the river to the train station. The station was staffed by a sole employee who once again, spoke great English and was incredibly helpful. We showed her where we were going and explained about the road closure. She recommended we travel three stops down the line and sold us tickets for ourselves and the bikes. The tickets cost just over two Euros each! This is incredibly cheap.

We moved the bikes onto the platform, took the bags off and discussed how we'd get bikes, bags and ourselves quickly and efficiently onto the train without bumping into each other like a slapstick comedy routine.

After a wait of about 20 minutes, a small train arrived, with only two doors in total. We headed for the nearest and as M1 carried M2's bike, a young man on the platform offered to help. His help was declined but it was nice that he offered. M2 focused on getting the bags on while M1 grabbed The Mule. Both bikes were safely leaned against a wall of the carriage. The doors closed and the train left the station.

Three stops and about three miles down the line, we got off at Sodupe. Craving coffee after all the drama, we rode a short distance into the town centre, found a cafe and had coffees. M2 had a pastry as well in a reversal of roles with M1 who is usually the ringleader when it comes to Second Breakfast.

Continuing from Sodupe, we were soon climbing gradually in lovely countryside with craggy hills, shrouded in low cloud. At about the 15 mile mark, the gradient increased noticeably. By the 25 mile mark, we were climbing hard. The last 8 miles or so were quite tough, albeit punctuated by a couple of tremendous descents.

We arrived in Orduña and cycled to the town centre where we'd booked a hotel, right on the main plaza. Orduña is quite lovely, it transpires. It may have seen better days but the plaza, with the elegant old hotel and church is very attractive.

We were too early to be able to get into our hotel room so we had cold drinks at a bar on the plaza and then went to the hotel. We were still a little early but with some difficulty, explained that we wanted to leave our bikes and bags so we could go and do some shopping on foot. We were saved from what was becoming a frustrating conversation aided by Google Translate with the employee on reception when one of his English speaking colleagues arrived, took over and got everything sorted out for us. Result.

That's it for today. Cheese has been eaten. More cheese will be eaten. Tomorrow is another day. Oh, and once again, despite the weather forecast, we didn't get rained on!