Bikepacking - Garessio to Imperia

Day #

24

State of Legs

:-|

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	Distance (miles)	Distance (km)	Ascent (feet)	Ascent (metres)	Punctures
Today	50 miles	km	4324 feet	metres	0
Trip Totals	1141 miles	km	47551 feet	metres	0

Today's Route

Relive the Route

Route So Far

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Travelogue

After a poor night's sleep and a disappointing breakfast at La Fornace, the bed and breakfast place I stayed at, I hit the road at about 8 a.m.

The initial 20 miles or so were on a fast and occasionally busy road. Fortunately, no lorries and the cars all passed me at a safe distance. The road climbed gently the whole way, but not so much you'd notice it.

I think technically, today was cooler than yesterday but it felt the opposite. There was barely a breeze, there was a lot less shade and it was quite humid. I really felt the conditions and was soon sweating like crazy.

In the town of Ormea, I stopped for a cold drink and for once, got to drink it myself rather than install it for phone cooling purposes. Instead, I invented V2 of the phone cooling system and used a solid state design instead.

The solid state V2 phone cooling system

I'd brought some zip lock bags, thinking they might be useful for food storage. V2 is simply a bag of ice cubes with the bag zipped shut and the top rolled tight. The bag is then installed under the phone. Simples and I get to drink a cold beverage instead of a smartphone-superheated one!

My new favourite Italian phrase (soon to be replaced by the French equivalent) is:

The road continued.... up. But not steeply.

After 15 miles of climbing though, suddenly it was time to descend! So, down I went, enjoying the cooling effect of the wind, going somewhat faster than I had been, but all the time taking care and remembering that The Mule doesn't handle like other bikes, especially at higher speeds.

Soon, I found myself having to cycle through a couple of tunnels. The first had a cycle lane. The second did not. Most unpleasant.

I reached a right turn on my route which would take me off the busy road to continue via a meandering road up into the mountains. I was already very hot and the poor sleep last night had sapped my energies before I started.  The way ahead on the busy road was a direct route to my destination, only about 10 miles away in that direction . I was tempted. But I could see another tunnel and really wanted to get off that road. And besides, since when was this trip about taking the shortest route from A to B?! So, I made the correct choice, turned right and started to climb more steeply into the mountains.

I could see the busy road below me for a while, with a long bridge leading to a tunnel. I was glad I hadn't gone that way.

After that it was a case of "just keep going". I told myself that many times, as the road led steeply on in the humidity and the heat. But then a miracle happened up in the skies! Some clouds appeared and moved in front of the sun! I was still hot but at least there was now some respite from the worst of the heat.

It was very still, with barely a breeze all this time. Perhaps encouraged by this, hundreds of butterflies were out and about. I've never seen so many.

Once again, I found myself wondering when the climb would end. I couldn't see how it could go any further! We seemed to be at the same height as the surroundings. Around a corner, I encountered a car travelling in the opposite direction and which had just pulled over. The German driver had got out. I asked him if he spoke English and he did speak some.

"I have a question. How much further before I reach the top?"

"About 80 metres"

"80 metres??!!!!! Fantastic!"

This news couldn't have come at a better time. I was getting tired. I rounded the next bend and sure enough, I was at the top!

The top!!

I got off the bike to take a photo and the German driver and his passenger stood down the hill watching me, amused as I whooped with delight. Actually, it was more like relief! :-)

From there, I had a massive descent to enjoy but this time on a minor road with a poor surface. In fact there was a section where there was considerably more dried cow shit than tarmac! Before starting the descent, I drank a load of water and ate some biscuits. I knew I was going to need a fully functioning brain to concentrate properly as I descended the twists and turns of this mountain road. When you've exerted yourself like I had and in the heat, losing an awful lot of fluid and salts through sweating, there's always a risk your brain and other parts of the nervous system will not quite work properly. So, food and water. And a short rest. And on I went.

If you look carefully you can see a butterfly whizzing past me in that last photo!

 

Partway down, I encountered this building which I assume is an abbey of some sort. I stopped to look around, rest a while and take on more food and water. I felt like I needed it.

I completed the descent which took me all the way into Imperia, stopped for some provisions and then found my way to the campsite I'd spoken to the day before. 

I seem to have been allocated the last spot, on a terrace up some steps. The campsite guy helped me carry The Mule, fully laden up them. I was exhausted in a way I hadn't previously experienced on this trip!

I've had more food and drink and a shower and am feeling more normal now :-)

I've even cleaned The Mule's chain and will lubricate it later.

All good. 

Tomorrow, if all goes to plan, I should cross the border into France.

Bon voyage to me!