Wednesday, 31 August 2022

Bikepacking - Arenas De Cabrales to Llanes

Day # 63 State of Legs :-)

Distance (miles) Distance (km) Ascent (feet) Ascent (metres) Punctures
Today 47 miles km 3763 feet metres 0
Trip Totals 2600 miles km 114496 feet metres 0


Today's Route
Route So Far

Travelogue

Yesterday, after finishing the day's blog post, I went back to my tent to rest and ended up having a rather nice afternoon sleep! I'd hung a t-shirt and my towel over the fence to give them a chance to air and dry, too. Multitasking you see. Sleeping. Drying. All at the same time. At least that was the plan.

Unfortunately, whilst I slept soundly (cycling and hiking in one day does that!) the heavens opened and it poured down. T-shirt and towel were soaked. And I need a nice dry towel!

Four young German rock climbers had arrived that afternoon and pitched their two tents by mine. They proceeded to hang out a whole load of clothes. They explained they'd been camping by the sea and everything was wet and wouldn't dry so they were trying again. I told them the campsite had a dryer that cost three Euros per load just in case their clothes didn't dry the low-tech way. 

Anyway, when I discovered my stuff was soaking, I decided to use the dryer. Only one of the Germans was at their tents but as I passed I told him what I was doing and invited them to throw some of their items in with mine given I only had a couple of things. He said his friends were already in the act of loading up the dryer and in fact, maybe I could throw my two things in with theirs. So, to cut a long story short, I caught up with the others, explained and they immediately invited me to add to their dryer load. I offered money. It was declined. They were simply nice and happy to do me a favour. It did take ages but at about 11:30 pm as I was in my tent, I got a "Special Delivery!" and my dried t-shirt and towel were delivered to me. How cool was that? A small thing maybe but a big help to me. 

Today though, it's day 63 of the trip and I'm ahead of schedule. The very concept of being on schedule hasn't really had any meaning previously, beyond the need to finish the trip in a maximum of three months. But I now have two events scheduled on specific dates which things are leading up to. One is considerably more important than the other. It's not hard to work out which one I have in mind :-)

I have booked a ferry from Santander to Plymouth on 8th September.  That's the first of the two events. Clearly I need to be in Santander for then.

And.... my lovely wife (and I'm not just saying that because she will probably read this post!) is flying out to Santander to spend some time with me on the 4th September. I should probably make sure I'm in Santander for the 4th then, never mind the 8th!

I could have cycled from the last destination, Arenas De Cabrales to Santander in a day. So, given it's the 31st August, I have time on my hands. Also known as an opportunity.

So far, I've taken advantage of being ahead of schedule by staying a day or two in various locations in Picos de Europa. I've hiked a couple of trails including yesterday's amazing Cares Gorge and I went up in a cable car at Fuente Dé. And who could forgot the guided tour of a cheese factory, conducted entirely in Spanish? Not me, I can promise you.

Today, I took a very indirect route from Arenas De Cabrales to a campsite near to the coastal resort of Llanes. I deliberately opted to cycle a long way west along the northern edge of Picos de Europa before turning north to cross a range of big hills to the coast and then east towards, through and a little beyond Llanes. I knew nothing in particular about the route other than how it looked on the map and its length.

After leaving Arenas de Cabrales, the AS-114 road climbed and I was treated to yet more of the Picos de Europa scenery, along the northern edge of the park. It was damp and misty mostly. The climb was gentle to begin with and then a little more serious but nothing compared to what lay ahead.




At Corao, I turned north on the AS-340. This took me away from Picos de Europa (sniff!) and towards the coast. And what a road! It turned out to be a fabulous, country road which passed over a substantial range of hills and through only the occasional remote village. I saw very few cars at all. It was a great place to cycle and I'm really glad I chose to go a long way around. I could have cut across to Llanes much earlier but I would have missed this!





On a brief downhill section, I turned a corner and had to slam the brakes on to avoid colliding with a bunch of malingerers blocking the road with no thought for anyone but themselves!


Luckily, nobody, human or bovine was hurt in this incident.

The road climbed and climbed, never steeply but it went on for mile after mile and made the major contribution to today's nearly 4,000 feet total ascent.









Eventually, the inevitable descent started and I made rapid progress towards Nueva near the coast. I turned a corner and was delighted to see the sea between two hills.

Hard to see here but the sea is over there between those hills!

I turned east at Nueva and pretty much instantly, it began to rain. It was drizzle but the heavy, soaking kind. Believe it or not, apart from a very brief and inconsequential encounter with some drizzle earlier in Spain, this was the first time I'd had to cycle in real rain on this whole trip. I put my rain jacket on and kept pedalling. It's the only way!

In Picos de Europa it had rained every day and sometimes quite dramatically, with thunder and lightning thrown in for good measure, but I'd always managed to avoid actually cycling in the rain. 

Rain is more or less the default weather around here it seems. It's almost as if a large body of air comes in from the sea carrying a lot of moisture, and is then forced to rise by the mountains where thanks to temperature inversion it gets colder, its capacity to carry moisture is reduced and the result is precipitation. But you know, it could be that 5G causes it to rain a lot because there are 5G networks around here. That's clearly no coincidence ;-)

I arrived in Llanes pretty wet. My rain jacket is OK but it really isn't waterproof. I instantly hated Llanes too. It's one of those recommended places because it's so quaint and everything blah. What it is is touristy. Loads of tourists everywhere and perhaps due to the weather, they were all in the cafes. I had coffee, put on my waterproof over-trousers (which are waterproof!) and carried on.

The campsite is four miles from Llanes. I had no problem getting a pitch. It has all that I need and I'll be staying here one night before moving on.  

Unfortunately, when I put the tent away this morning, the fly sheet was very wet. A lot of that water seems to have transferred from the outside of the flysheet to the floor of the interior living quarters whilst being transported in the bag on my bike, so I have a rather damp home today! It's all part of the adventure, it's all part of the adventure, it's all part of the adventure etc. 

Here's today's profile:


Tuesday, 30 August 2022

Bikepacking - The Cares Gorge Trail

Day # 62 State of Legs :-)

Distance (miles) Distance (km) Ascent (feet) Ascent (metres) Punctures
Today 0 miles km 0 feet metres 0
Trip Totals 2553 miles km 110733 feet metres 0


Today's Route
No cycling the route today
Route So Far

Travelogue

The plan for today was to cycle to and then hike the Cares Gorge trail in both directions and then cycle back to the campsite again. And that's what I did.

I was up quite early, hoping to start hiking before it got very busy. Cares Gorge is very popular and with good reason. But rather than the blue skies that had been forecast, I found myself looking at very low cloud once again. I thought about delaying and staying at the campsite until it was more certain we were not in for a thundery, stormy day. But I couldn't just sit around and so got on the bike and set off to cycle the approximately 5 miles from the campsite up to the start of the trail at the village of Poncebos.

Misty

There was a lot of low cloud but I could glimpse blue sky and sunlight ahead as I cycled, so despite the misty conditions, I was optimistic.

On arrival at Poncebos, I was surprised how many parked cars there were and how many people were already heading up the road to start hiking. I parked The Mule and chained them to an information sign and set off.


  Following the path south to the end at Caín de Valdeón, you spend most of your time climbing. The gradient is generally quite gentle, however. The path is always wide enough for people to pass in both directions but hugs the cliffs of the gorge and is often at quite a dizzying height above the river in the gorge below. 

Here's the outbound route:


My Suunto GPS watch went a bit haywire and recorded the outbound route as 8.8 miles and the return, which is the outbound route in reverse as 12.7 miles. I'd noticed it display an unusual message when I started recording the outbound walk and just thought "that's odd" and continued. The walk is supposed to be between 7 and 7.5 miles long, in fact. I've since reset the watch and it seems OK again. 
 
The scenery along the entire trail is absolutely wonderful. It's no surprise it's regarded as the best hike in the Picos de Europa park

Here are some photos from the outbound walk. None of them do the place justice. I made some short videos on the return walk and they're at the end of this post and conceivably help get an idea of what the place is like. To be honest, the only way to really know is to go there!













There are a few low and quite dark tunnels towards the end

Caín de Valdeón and the end of the trail in this direction

At Caín de Valdeón, I had a cold drink and ate a home made blue cheese bocadillo and rested a while before turning around and heading back along the trail the way I'd come, destined for Poncebos and hopefully, my bike!

Photos and videos from the return walk:













Cares Gorge was a truly amazing hike. One of the best I can remember doing with excellent scenery.

On arriving in Poncebos, I was pleased to see that The Mule was still there, patiently awaiting my return.



Here are a few videos I made on the return walk back to Poncebos.







That's it for today!