Sunday, 31 July 2022

Bikepacking - Oraison to Cavaillon

Day # 32 State of Legs :-|

Distance (miles) Distance (km) Ascent (feet) Ascent (metres) Punctures
Today 72 miles km 2707 feet metres 0
Trip Totals 1457 miles km 62446 feet metres 0


Today's Route
Route So Far

Travelogue

Oak trees, jays, a red squirrel and lavender. These are the highlights of today. Oh and dinner. We'll come to that.

Once again, the day started with tolerable temperatures. The cycling was great, through hills but with a general downhill trend. There were uphill parts that made their presence felt, but there was a lot more downhill today than has been the case in a long while. 

For some reason my legs were not happy today, at least not during the first 30 miles or so. I guess they just hadn't fully recovered from yesterday despite that not having been a particularly arduous day. They perked up later though and of course got me to Cavaillon where I am currently camped.

I think of today's ride as falling into two stages.

Initially, in the hills, the landscape was dominated by trees. We don't have that many tree-clad hills left in England but here in this part of France it's very common. The trees here were largely oak trees. I don't think I've ever seen so many oak trees in one place. And I saw dozens of Jays as well. This is not a coincidence. Jays are associated with oak trees because they bury acorns and are therefore responsible for the growth of many new trees












Cycling along a narrow path through woodland, I saw a red squirrel! In the UK, we have very few of this native species left. They've largely been pushed to one side by the cunning and supremely agile grey squirrel. I went to take a photo of the red squirrel but was too late. So instead, here's a photo of my bike at the spot where I saw the squirrel. Just as good, no?

There was a red squirrel here, honestly!

I stopped in the town of Reillane. It seemed a very popular place with tourists in general and there were a few cyclists at the bar I went to as well. As usual, I had a coffee, a cold drink and had my bottles refilled. I also ate some biscuits and an apple to take on a little fuel.



From here it seemed to get drier. The fields looked parched and there were fewer trees as we left the hills. Much of the cycling now was on a cycle path. A very nice cycle path with a great surface and of course no traffic. I have mixed feelings about these sections though. They create a nice cycling environment but they're maybe a little dull. I prefer the country lanes and minor roads that meander through the hills and farmland.

In this second stage, there was a characteristic that was with me for much of the way. The smell. Many of the fields grew lavender. It had evidently been cut but you could smell it in the air everywhere. It was wonderful of course. I later learned that the lavender had been harvested a month earlier than usual this year because of the hot weather.






That's lavender behind the bike - there were so many lavender fields

Refilling bottles at a public fountain





I saw lots of dry river beds (or maybe the same one many times)

I stopped one more time for refreshments and ice for the phone, about 10 miles from Cavaillon.


The campsite was easy to find and I soon had the tent up, without fly sheet, it being so hot.


I'd eaten an apple, a couple of pieces of bread and a couple of biscuits for breakfast. And for lunch? Well, nothing really. An apple and half a dozen more biscuits en route. So, I was looking forward to dinner after cycling 72 miles.

But I'd forgotten that today is a Sunday! So all supermarkets close at mid-day. And that was that. I asked about food at the campsite and was told there was a McDonalds about a kilometre away and that the public swimming pool next to the campsite had a snack bar. I hit the snack bar, it being closest. I asked what they had and heard the word "pizza". OK, this was looking promising. I ordered pizza, a "normal" portion of fries and a coke and sat down at the only table.



The "pizza" turned out to be a slice of pizza. And when I asked for "un autre" learned it was the last one! But, but, but, but, but (splutter), I just cycled 115 km! These words flashed through my mind as I looked down at what was probably no more than a thousand calories, if that.

Solution? For dessert I ordered.....


That's "frites grand avec ketchup"! Living the dream. It won't crack the top 100 of French food I've eaten in my life but I'm no longer hungry and tomorrow's another day. And the shops will be open :-)

Bon appetit!


Saturday, 30 July 2022

Bikepacking - La Verdiere to Oraison

Day # 31 State of Legs :-)

Distance (miles) Distance (km) Ascent (feet) Ascent (metres) Punctures
Today 64 miles km 2313 feet metres 0
Trip Totals 1385 miles km 59739 feet metres 0


Today's Route
Route So Far

Travelogue

The day started with perfect cycling weather. A blue sky, the sun shining, a nice breeze (but not a head wind!) and the temperature was in the twenties, not the thirties. The route was pleasant and the traffic very light.





At just after 9:00, I cycled into Rians and stopped at a bar for coffee. 



After my coffee, I was of course in need of a Pain au Chocolat. And right across the road was God's Own Boulangerie. For it is here that I bought and consumed The Perfect Pain au Chocolat! It melted in my mouth. It's not possible for me to properly describe its pure, perfection. Just for good measure, I bought a couple of freshly baked cookies to eat later on the road too. How could they be anything but good if wrought by the same baker's hands that had made that Pain Chocolat?!

Belinda Carlisle was right - Heaven *is* a place on earth - And here it is!

After refuelling, I continued, following Eurovelo EV8 with comparative ease. Until, that is.... it stopped being easy. I'd plotted my route by hand/mouse, trying to copy the route as shown on the map at the Eurovelo web site, a painfully tedious and difficult task. At that time, no GPX files had been available for download and in fact Eurovelo only released them last week! And this was as part of a celebration of twenty-five years of Eurovelo! Anyway, as I arrived alongside a large canal, my route said go right and a Eurovelo EV8 sign said go left. Oh dear! Either I'd messed up or the map as shown on the website did not match the signs on the ground (the latter definitely happens from time to time). I stayed with the route I'd plotted as my campsite was somewhere close to it so I couldn't risk getting too far away from it.

It was now hot as well. The breeze had vanished and the temperature was climbing in the thirties. I found myself following a large canal (the EDF Canal, I think), first on a trail and then alongside it on a pretty busy road. And I was on this busy, noisy road for at least ten miles. I was cursing myself for having deviated from the official EV8 route, imagining it to be leafy, cool and traffic free. Which it probably was!

My photos don't reflect this part of the route as I didn't want to stop!



An EV8 sign - not off-route yet!





Old bridge, new bridge


Very new bridge




Suddenly, I spied an EV8 sign! I was back on the official route. I'm not sure for how long I wasn't or how far away from the official route I'd been. But I was back and continued to the town of Villeneuve where I intended to pick up groceries before heading to today's campsite.







 I arrived at about half-past one. The supermarket was closed between 13:00 and 15:00. It could have been worse. Often the shops shut between 13:00 and 16:00! They certainly know how to lunch around here.

So, I found a bar that was to be open for the next 10 minutes it turned out, and got myself a cold drink and my bottles refilled with cold water. I sat, relaxed and rehydrated.


Eventually, I cycled over to the supermarket, half a mile down the road. It was still closed but I waited in the shade outside.


After grabbing more food than I needed (feeling hungry does that to my shopping!), I had another five miles to cycle to get to the campsite. After checking in and finding my pitch but before putting up my tent, I ate. I've never eaten before the tent was up and I've had a shower but today I was so hungry. It turns out that man doth not cycle on pain au chocolat alone!

Feeling better, with french bread, blue cheese and tomatoes inside me, normal routine was resumed. The tent is up and in a bit of shade and the shower was very nice indeed.



 Today wasn't the best day but even the worst day on this trip so far has been pretty good. My route was good to start with and then not so much. And it was just a little too hot! But it wasn't as hilly as expected and tomorrow I'm expecting it to be largely downhill. That will be a novelty!

Here's today's profile:


C'est bon!